Where to Go in Palawan Beyond the Beaches

Palawan gets sold as a beach destination. The beaches are lovely, but the island's real character is in its limestone, its water, and the way the two meet.

Take the boat to the lagoons

Around El Nido, the karst islands hide lagoons you can only enter by kayak or through a narrow gap in the rock. Go early, before the tour boats arrive, and you may have one to yourself.

The underground river

Near Puerto Princesa, a river runs through a cave system and out to the sea. A paddle inside, in near silence, with a guide who points out formations by headlamp, is one of the most unusual hours in Southeast Asia.

Coron's lakes

Kayangan Lake is worth the boat ride. The water is clear, layered with fresh and salt, and cool enough to feel like a reward after a hot climb up the steps.

Timing

Aim for the dry season, November to May. The seas are calmer and the visibility underwater is at its best. In the wetter months the crossings are rougher, though you trade weather for space.

Travel lightly, and respect the water

Use reef safe sunscreen, choose operators with small groups, and carry your rubbish back. The reason to come here is the same reason to protect it.