AURA

Food4 min read

Eating the Amalfi Coast, One Long Lunch at a Time

Lemons, anchovies, and fresh pasta: a short guide to the coast's table, and how to book it well.

Positano at dusk, with lit houses climbing the hillside above a blue bay
Positano at dusk, with lit houses climbing the hillside above a blue bay. Photo: JeCCo, CC BY 4.0.

The Amalfi Coast is easy to see and harder to taste. The postcard version, a pretty terrace over the sea with a menu translated into six languages, is everywhere. The good version takes a bit of planning.

Eat where the lemons grow

The coast's lemons are large, fragrant, and used in everything from pasta to liqueur. Book lunch at a family run terrace in the hills where the trees are visible from the table. The food is simpler and the view is better.

Ask for the catch

In a good seafood restaurant, the menu is what the boats brought in that morning. Ask what came in, and order that. It will not always be the most famous dish, but it will be the freshest.

Take a class

A cooking session with a local family gives you more than a recipe. You learn how the dishes are actually made, in kitchens where they have been made for decades, and you eat what you cook.

Timing matters

Lunch in Italy starts late and runs long. Plan to start at 1:30 and expect to finish after 3. Fill the rest of the afternoon with something slow: a swim, a walk, a nap.

Book ahead

The best tables on the coast fill early in the season. If a particular restaurant matters to you, tell us early, and we will arrange it around your trip.

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